City walk Coimbra – Santa Clara

Coimbra a city I think I know fairly well after all. However a city that keeps showing me new things. After some searching on the internet, “City walk Coimbra” appeared on my wish list. Not just walking criss-cross through Coimbra, but very specifically the Santa Clara district.

A city walk that is also great to do with children as it is about 4 kilometers and 12000 steps. You have to take into account some climbing in the steep streets. You can easily park your car in the parking garage of the Convento São Francisco. A good starting point too because the first leg of the Coimbra city walk is to the Monastery of Santa Clara a Nova.

The city walk Coimbra begins the Convento São Francisco, for us a little earlier because we had parked the car at the Aldi. Easy for shopping before we would go to.

At the Convento São Francisco, turn right into a small narrow steep street, rua Carlos Alberto Pinto de Abreu and then turn right into Calçada Santa Isabel. I was given the tip not to walk up at my normal walking pace but with a slow stride. You will then last much longer walking uphill. This turned out to be a golden tip. The little street winds up and after about 450 meters you arrive at the convent of Santa Clara.

The Monastery of Santa Clara was built in 1649 atop the highest point in Santa Clara. This is because the old Santa Clara convent of the Clarissa nuns, Monastery de Santa Clara-a- Velha, was close to the Mondego River and suffered frequent floods.

The chapel of the Santa Clara Monastery houses the mortal remains of Queen Santa Isabel. The silver tomb is located in the high altar and was placed there in 1677 with a great procession from the old convent. Dona Isabel, a descendant of the house of Aragon died in 1336 at the age of 66.

Inside the chapel there is a lot of Baroque woodwork and paintings from the 18th century that all refer to the life of the holy queen, Santa Isabel. The chapel also contains two coffins. Buried here are D. Isabel, daughter of King Afonso IV, she died in 1326 at the age of 2, and D. Isabel de Aragon, the first Duchess of Coimbra. She died in 1469 at the age of 60.

Old city wall

We were not fortunate that the circumambulation of the cloisters were open. However on coming out again a large cross and a small chapel even higher up the mountain caught our attention. If you walk about 150 meters further up you will come out at a small chapel that is just in front of the city wall. Santa Clara is a special neighborhood with an atmosphere all its own within Coimbra.

Small houses are stacked one above the other against the city wall. The houses are colorful and all have mosaic panels. For a cup of coffee and some goodies, there is a café with a great view of the Coimbra city and university.

We sat here for a while and enjoyed our pastel de nata before moving on to the next leg: Jardins da Quinta das Lágrimas.

After our cup of coffee and cake, we continue our city tour of Coimbra. The final destination of the second stage is Jardins da Quinta das Lágrimas. It is a short kilometer walk. Much of it we now walk back downhill. Halfway through we cross a small alley where we take the stairs down. Up to here it was nice walking in this district of Coimbra but now we are walking on a not so nice road.

Pay attention because after about 200 meters you have to turn left down a staircase. This one is fairly hidden so be careful not to miss it. At the bottom of the stairs turn right and you are already in the right street. Again, it is not the nicest walk. Until you reach the entrance to the gardens!

Upon entering“Jardins da Quinta das Lágrimas,” you step into another world. Main target within these gardens are the famous fountains that tell the story of the forbidden love between a crown prince, Pedro son of Afonso IV, and his beloved Inês, a Galician maid. Inês was beheaded by order of the king 2 years before Pedro became king of Portugal.

Legend has it that at the place where Inês was murdered a fountain was created from her tears and blood. A strange stain of reddish algae can still be seen on the rock at Fonte das Lágrimas.

Mad with grief, and having become king of Portugal in 1357, Pedro ordered the arrest and death of Inês’ murderers, himself tearing out their hearts. Posthumously, he had Inês recognized as queen of Portugal and had two magnificent tombs built in the royal monastery of Alcobaça , so that he could rest forever beside his eternal beloved.

Back to the entrance to the gardens of Quinta das Lágrimas. Upon entering, you are pleasantly surprised by the beautiful and unusual vegetation of meters-high flowering yuccas. Along a well laid out walking path you first pass parts of the golf course. Starting with a practice tee-off area, a canteen with a terrace, followed by a large area with practice holes to tee off, a green and a sandbox.

If you walk straight ahead you choose the long circular route and pass many more beautiful trees and plants. We chose the shortcut and went left. You then come directly to Fonte dos Amores. This is the place where Inês found the love messages left by Pedro and where they could meet.

Fonte dos Amores

Fonte dos Amores is certainly a special place. The arches still give a mystical atmosphere to the area. There is a huge ancient tree with gigantic roots and opposite it there is a mini bamboo forest. You can sit and enjoy the surroundings on the old stone bench next to the actual water feature of Fonte dos Amores. Let the imagination run wild that Inês and Pedro sat here before you.

Fonte das Lágrimas

As you walk through, the first eye-catcher is a huge rectangular pond with water lilies. Beautifully maintained. However immediately to the right in the corner is Fonte das Lágrimas, the place where Inês was murdered and beheaded. It was probably imagination but around the fountain that still flows there was also a dark and gloomy atmosphere.

Fonte das Lágrimas is not a place to linger long. We walked a little further to the other side where there are benches. Here is a large field which is regularly used as an open-air theater and for all kinds of events. Often belonging to the hotel and wellness club though. The hotel, Lágrimas Residence Luxery, is located in the former palace and rightfully bears the addition “luxery”!

The last leg of the Coimbra city walk through the Santa Clara district. After our visit to the gardens we turned right at the exit and then the third street on the left, not the marked route but I could remember this from a previous visit years ago. You then walk along Portugal Pequeno towards the center. At the end of the street you’ll see the Convento São Francisco again on the left and you can walk right into the old center of Coimbra.

We stopped here and plopped down on the street corner at a fantastically good Turkish kebab store. If you do want to extend your Coimbra city walk then a good option is to walk on to the other side. Among other things, there you can walk all the way up to the University of Coimbra. Find more Coimbra tips or tips on walking Coimbra in visiting Coimbra….

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